If you have ever watched water run off your lawn onto the sidewalk halfway through a watering cycle, you have seen the main problem with watering clay soil. The sprinklers put water down faster than the soil can take it in. Cycle and soak is a simple scheduling method that fixes much of this without changing any equipment. This article explains how it works and how to set it up within Fort Worth’s watering rules.
Why Runoff Happens
Every soil has an infiltration rate, the speed at which it can absorb water. Sandy soils absorb water quickly. Clay soils, common across much of Fort Worth and Tarrant County, absorb water slowly. Compacted soil, thick thatch and slopes slow it down even more.
Sprinklers have an application rate, the speed at which they put water down. Spray heads apply water much faster than rotors or rotary nozzles. When the application rate is higher than the infiltration rate, water starts to pool and run off. After that point, extra run time mostly waters the street.
Our article on clay soil and sprinkler systems explains how clay affects watering in more detail.
How Cycle and Soak Works
Instead of running a zone for one long stretch, you split the total time into two or three shorter runs with breaks in between. During each short run, the zone applies water up to the point where runoff would begin. During the break, the water soaks in. The next run adds more water to soil that has had time to absorb the first round.
The total run time stays about the same. The difference is that more of the water ends up in the root zone instead of on the sidewalk.
Step 1: Find Your Runoff Point
On a watering day, run one zone and watch it. Use a timer on your phone. Note how many minutes pass before water starts to pool or run off. That is your maximum cycle length for that zone. It will often be different for each zone, depending on head type, slope and soil.
Step 2: Decide the Total Run Time
Figure out how long the zone needs to run in total to water the lawn deeply enough. Our guide on how long to run each zone covers how to estimate it.
Step 3: Divide the Time
Divide the total time into cycles no longer than the runoff point. For example, if a spray zone needs 15 minutes total and starts running off after 6 minutes, split it into three 5-minute cycles.
Step 4: Program the Controller
There are two common ways to program cycle and soak:
Built-in cycle and soak feature
Many newer and smart controllers have a cycle and soak setting for each zone. You enter the maximum cycle time and the minimum soak time, and the controller handles the rest. Our article on smart sprinkler controllers covers this feature.
Multiple start times
On a basic controller, you can set two or three start times for the same program, and divide each zone’s run time accordingly. The controller runs all zones once, then starts over at the next start time. If your system has several zones, the time it takes to cycle through the other zones becomes the soak time for each one.
Step 5: Stay Within Watering Hours
Fort Worth does not allow irrigation systems to run between 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. When you add cycles, make sure the last one finishes before 10 a.m. Add up all run times across all start times, then pick a first start time early enough to finish in time. If you run late into the morning on your watering day, move your first start time earlier. Our controller programming guide explains how start times work.
Cycle and soak does not change your watering days. It all happens within your two assigned days.
Soak Time
A soak time of at least 30 minutes to an hour between cycles on the same zone works well for most clay soils. On a system with many zones, cycling through the other zones often provides enough soak time naturally.
Which Zones Benefit Most
- Spray zones on clay, since spray heads apply water quickly
- Zones on slopes, where water runs downhill before soaking in
- Parkway strips and areas next to concrete, where runoff quickly reaches the street
- Compacted areas with heavy foot traffic
Rotor zones and drip zones usually need less splitting, since they apply water more slowly.
Pairing With Other Fixes
Cycle and soak works even better when combined with:
- Rotary nozzles on spray zones to lower the application rate
- Aeration to loosen compacted clay and improve absorption
- Fixing overspray so heads do not hit concrete. See our article on heads spraying the street or driveway.
- Check valves on the lowest heads if you also have low-head drainage
Why It Matters
Runoff is listed as water waste under Fort Worth’s watering rules. Cycle and soak is one of the simplest tools for avoiding it. It also helps the lawn: water that soaks in deeper encourages deeper roots, which helps grass get through the summer on two watering days a week. Our guide to stopping runoff on clay and slopes covers more ways to reduce runoff.
When to Call a Technician
If runoff continues after scheduling changes, the system may need nozzle upgrades, head adjustments or zone changes. Our sprinkler repair service can evaluate the zones and make changes.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is cycle and soak watering?
It splits each zone’s total run time into shorter cycles with breaks in between, so water soaks into the soil instead of running off.
How many cycles should I use?
Two or three cycles per watering day works well for most clay soils. Base each cycle’s length on when runoff starts.
Does cycle and soak use more water?
No. The total run time stays about the same. It just spreads it out so more water reaches the roots.
Can I use cycle and soak within Fort Worth’s watering rules?
Yes, as long as all cycles run on your assigned days and finish outside the 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. window.
Tired of Watering the Sidewalk?
If your lawn keeps running off, we can set up cycle and soak, adjust your heads and help more of the water reach the roots.
Request Service or call 817-500-0444
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